Author: Alan Odinson
The Biggest Mistakes First-Time Horse Bow Buyers Make (And How to Avoid Them)
The Biggest Mistakes First-Time Horse Bow Buyers Make (And How to Avoid Them)

If you’re thinking about buying your first horse bow, congratulations—you’ve chosen one of the most rewarding forms of archery you’ll ever experience.
Unfortunately, many new archers make the same mistakes before they ever loose their first arrow. The good news? Every one of these mistakes is easy to avoid with a little guidance.
At Odinson Archery, we’ve helped thousands of shooters begin their thumb draw journey.
Here are the biggest mistakes we see first-time horse bow buyers make—and what you should do instead.
Mistake #1: Buying a Bow That’s Too Heavy
One of the most common misconceptions is that heavier bows are “better.”
They’re not.
A bow that’s too heavy causes poor shooting form, inconsistent releases, shoulder fatigue, and frustration. Rather than developing proper technique, many beginners end up fighting the bow.
Your first bow should allow you to focus on learning thumb draw mechanics—not simply trying to pull the string back.
Our recommendation: Most adults, that are new to archery, should begin with a draw weight between 25–35 pounds, depending on their physical strength and experience. As your technique improves, increasing draw weight becomes much easier. Many times we recommend having a heavier bow along with a lighter training bow of the same kind
Remember, good form beats raw strength every time.
Mistake #2: Choosing the Wrong Arrows
Even the best bow will perform poorly if it’s paired with incorrect arrows.
Many first-time buyers assume that any arrow will work. In reality, arrow spine plays a major role in how an Asiatic bow shoots.
Different bow designs require different arrow stiffness.
For example:
- Wider arrow pass bows, such as our Assassin Bow or Plains Native, generally perform best with 500 spine arrows and at least a 100-grain point.
- Narrower arrow pass bows like the Alp Turkish or Raider typically perform better with 400 spine arrows, sometimes with slightly heavier points depending on your shooting style.
Using properly matched arrows results in cleaner arrow flight, greater consistency, and a much more enjoyable shooting experience. A properly spined arrow that has feather fletching is your best chance of success.
Mistake #3: Trying to Learn Everything From Random YouTube Videos
The internet is an incredible resource…
It’s also full of conflicting advice.
One instructor tells you to rotate your wrist one way. Another says the opposite. One says use khatra immediately. Another says never use it.
Before long, many new archers are confused and constantly changing their technique.
Progress comes from following one structured system until you’ve developed solid fundamentals.
Learning thumb draw is much easier when every lesson builds upon the last.
That’s exactly why we created the Thumb Draw Codex—to provide a clear, organized progression instead of scattered information.
Mistake #4: Forgetting About Thumb Protection

Many beginners are excited to start shooting and don’t think about thumb protection until after they’ve developed a sore thumb.
Don’t make that mistake.
A quality thumb guard or thumb ring protects your release hand while allowing you to focus on technique instead of discomfort.
Even lighter bows can create unnecessary strain if shot repeatedly without proper protection.
Comfort leads to longer practice sessions—and longer practice sessions lead to faster improvement. Later on, you can step into conditioning your thumb to not need the thumb guard but there’s no reason to start there a limit your drawing capabilities.
Mistake #5: Expecting Instant Perfection
Traditional horse bows are different from modern Olympic recurves or compound bows.
The draw feels different.
The release feels different.
The aiming process feels different.
That’s exactly what makes them so rewarding.
Many beginners become discouraged after one afternoon because they aren’t stacking arrows at twenty yards.
Don’t judge your progress by perfection.
Judge it by consistency.
Every practice session builds another layer of skill.
Stay patient.
The confidence comes surprisingly quickly when you trust the process.
Mistake #6: Practicing Without a Plan

Simply shooting arrows isn’t the same as training.
If every session consists of “just shooting,” improvement tends to happen very slowly.
Instead, give each practice session a purpose.
Maybe today’s goal is improving your release.
Tomorrow might focus on posture.
The next session could be entirely dedicated to draw consistency.
Keeping a training journal is one of the easiest ways to accelerate improvement because it helps identify patterns, measure progress, and eliminate recurring mistakes.Small improvements made consistently create remarkable results over time.
The Best First Horse Bow Is the One You’ll Actually Shoot
Many people spend weeks trying to find the “perfect” bow.
The truth is, your first bow isn’t meant to be your last.
Its job is to introduce you to an entirely new style of archery and build a solid foundation.
Whether you’re interested in historical archery, instinctive shooting, mounted archery, hunting, or simply enjoying something different from modern equipment, the important thing is getting started.
The sooner you begin practicing good fundamentals, the sooner you’ll experience the speed, fluidity, and satisfaction that has made horse bows popular for centuries.
Start Your Journey the Right Way
At Odinson Archery, our goal isn’t simply to sell equipment.
Our mission is to help build confident, capable traditional archers.
If you’re just getting started, we recommend beginning with:
- The Assassin Bow – An affordable, forgiving bow that’s an excellent introduction to thumb draw.
- The Thumb Draw Codex – A complete guide to learning proper thumb draw technique.
- The Training Journal – Build better habits and track your progress from your very first shot.
- Properly matched arrows and thumb protection – The small details that make a huge difference.
Traditional archery isn’t about shortcuts.
It’s about developing skill through consistency, discipline, and practice.
Avoid these common mistakes, trust the process, and you’ll be amazed how quickly your confidence—and your shooting—begins to grow.
We’ll see you on the range.

What Draw Weight Should I Start With for Thumb Draw Archery?

One of the most common questions I get from people interested in Asiatic archery is:
“What draw weight should I start with for thumb draw archery?”
It’s a great question, and it’s one that can make a huge difference in how quickly you improve.
A lot of new archers make the mistake of thinking they should start with the heaviest bow they can pull. The idea is usually, “I don’t want to outgrow my first bow.”
The problem is that a bow that is too heavy can actually slow your progress.
Your goal as a beginner is not to prove how strong you are. Your goal is to build clean, repeatable shooting mechanics.
Every arrow you shoot is teaching your body something. If you are fighting the bow, straining through the draw, or struggling to hold proper form, your body begins learning those bad habits.
A lighter bow allows you to focus on the things that actually make you a better archer:
- Proper stance
- Consistent anchor
- Smooth draw
- Back tension
- Clean release
- Follow through
These fundamentals are what create accuracy.
So What Draw Weight Should a Beginner Start With?

For most adult beginners, I recommend starting around:
Men: 30-40 pounds
Women: 25–35 pounds
Children/Teenagers: depends on size and strength
Could many people pull a heavier bow? Absolutely.
But there is a big difference between being able to pull a bow once and being able to shoot that bow correctly for an entire practice session.
A beginner should be able to finish a shooting session feeling like they could have taken another 20–30 quality shots.
That is how skill is built.
Why Starting Too Heavy Hurts Your Progress

I have seen many new archers purchase a 50 or 60 pound bow because they do not want to “grow out of it.”
Unfortunately, what usually happens is they grow into frustration instead.
When a bow is too heavy, your body starts compensating:
- Your shoulders rise
- Your anchor becomes inconsistent
- Your release becomes forced
- Your accuracy becomes unpredictable
- Your practice sessions become exhausting
Instead of learning how to shoot, you end up learning how to survive the bow.
And that is not the goal.
A lighter bow gives you the opportunity to develop your technique correctly. Once your form becomes natural, increasing draw weight becomes much easier.
A skilled archer with a 35-pound bow will usually outperform a beginner struggling with a 60-pound bow.
Our goal is NOT to just get reps shooting. Our goal is QUALITY reps
What About Traditional Horse Bows and Thumb Draw?
Many people are attracted to Asiatic bows because of their history and their unique shooting style. However, these bows still require the same thing every other bow requires:
Good fundamentals.
The thumb draw is extremely efficient, but it also requires learning proper hand position, thumb placement, back tension, and release mechanics.
Starting with the right draw weight gives you the chance to learn those skills without fighting against the equipment.
Your first bow should be a teacher, not an opponent.
When Should You Increase Draw Weight?
Once you can consistently shoot with good form and your technique feels natural, moving up in weight becomes a much better experience.
Signs you are ready for more draw weight:
- You can shoot multiple practice sessions without fatigue
- Your anchor remains consistent
- Your release feels smooth
- Your groups are improving
- You are controlling the bow instead of fighting it
At that point, a heavier bow becomes a tool for growth rather than an obstacle.
Choosing Your First Thumb Draw Bow

The best first bow is not always the most powerful bow.
The best first bow is the one that allows you to build the skills that will make you a better archer for life.
At Odinson Archery, we focus on helping new archers choose equipment that matches their current skill level while giving them room to grow.
Whether you are looking for your first horse bow, learning thumb draw for the first time, or trying to improve your existing technique, the foundation always comes first.
If you want to become a better archer, start with good habits.
Start with good equipment.
ODINSON’S PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION – Start with two bows. Get one that you can shoot for practice (training weight) and one that is your “hunting” weight bow or “full sized” weight.
That is one of the big advantages of our “Brotherhood of the Bow MEGA Pack” due to it having everything needed to begin as well as two bows!
Many of our customers go this route as it allows them to start right out with all that is needed to set them up for the best opportunity to succeed right from the start.
Ready to start?
If you’re looking for your first bow, we’ve got beginner friendly models to help you build solid form from day one.
CHOOSE YOUR BOW
And if you’re already shooting but struggling to group, my Fast Form Coaching can help you figure out exactly what’s holding you back as well as my ebook “The Thumb Draw Codex” that is a first of it’s kind guide to learning the system that has allowed my students to excel at their craft
Train smart, build good habits..
Become the archer few people ever will.
How to Choose the Correct Arrow Spine for an Asiatic Bow

Choosing the right arrow spine for an Asiatic or horse bow does not have to be complicated.
My recommendation is to base your starting spine largely on the width of the bow’s arrow pass.
The wider the arrow pass, the more flex you generally want from the arrow during the shot. A narrower arrow pass allows you to use a stiffer shaft.
Wide Arrow Pass Bows

For bows with a wider arrow pass, such as the Odinson Archery Assassin, I generally recommend:
500 spine arrows with at least a 100-grain point.
Depending on your shooting style, draw length, and release, you may find that a slightly heavier point helps fine-tune the arrow’s behavior.
I do not recommend going lighter than a 100-grain point.
The goal is to give the arrow enough dynamic flex during the shot to work properly around the bow.
For this type of bow, I generally would not go weaker than 500 spine.
Many people choose to go a bit lighter but I would caution against this.
I also do not recommend going with a heavier insert rather than a heavier arrow tip. I tend to find that heavier inserts will throw the balance off on the arrow. Typically, this is reserved for people more experienced in building arrows to insure that you get the best balance out of your arrows.
This is why I recommend using our arrows here at Odinson Archery because they are crafted for the bow as well as have feather fletching, which is also as much for these style bows
Narrow Arrow Pass Bows

For bows with a narrower arrow pass, such as the Alp or Raider, I generally recommend:
Around 400 spine with at least a 100-grain point.
Depending on how you shoot, you may find that increasing the point weight to 125 grains or more improves arrow flight.
Because the arrow pass is narrower, the shaft does not need as much flex to clear the bow effectively.
For these bows, I generally recommend staying around 400 spine and not going stiffer than that without a specific reason to do so.
I have found that you will also need to take into account the length of your arrow as well. Most people in the Asiatic Archery world tend to use arrows in the 30 to 31 inch range depending on your draw length.
This will also need to be accounted for.
Point Weight Matters
Arrow spine is only part of the equation.
Point weight changes how the arrow behaves dynamically.
A heavier point generally causes the arrow to flex more during acceleration, while a lighter point causes it to behave stiffer.
That is why I recommend starting with at least a 100-grain point and then adjusting upward if necessary.
Do not immediately change shaft spine every time your arrows are not flying perfectly.
Sometimes a change from a 100-grain point to a 125-grain point is enough to improve the way the arrow behaves with your bow and shooting style.
What About Khatra?

Khatra is often presented as the solution to arrow-clearance and spine problems in Asiatic archery.
Historically, that makes sense.
Traditional archers were using wooden arrows produced without the extremely consistent spine tolerances available to us today. Large numbers of arrows could vary considerably in stiffness, even when they appeared nearly identical.
Khatra helped the archer compensate for some of those inconsistencies and improve arrow clearance.
Today, however, we have access to modern carbon shafts with highly consistent spine ratings, along with different point weights and components that allow us to fine-tune arrow behavior.
Because of that, I believe we should take advantage of modern technology and begin with a properly matched arrow rather than relying on exaggerated khatra to compensate for poor arrow selection.
Khatra can still be an important part of Asiatic shooting technique, but it should work with properly tuned equipment, not replace it.
As discussed at length in my book “The Thumb Draw Codex“, we should strive for a natural expansion of the chest on the shot no matter what arrow you’re using. This is a natural part of the show process that is kind of like “nature’s khatra” but is purely an incident movement based off of your bodies movement.
A Simple Starting Guide
| Bow Type | Recommended Starting Spine | Point Weight |
|---|---|---|
| Wide arrow pass, such as Assassin | 500 spine | 100 grains minimum |
| Narrow arrow pass, such as Alp or Raider | 400 spine | 100 grains minimum; 125+ may help |
These are starting recommendations rather than absolute rules.
Your draw length, release style, arrow length, and individual technique may require small adjustments, particularly in point weight.
But for most modern Asiatic bow setups, there is little reason to make arrow selection unnecessarily complicated.
Start with the correct spine for the bow’s geometry, use an appropriate point weight, feather fletching on ALL of your arrows and then fine-tune from there.
If you’re still having issues with finding the correct arrows for your bow, you can get your custom arrows here at Odinson Archery
Find Carbon Arrows Here and Find Wooden Arrows Here
REMEMBER – ANY BOW PURCHASED WITH ARROWS FROM ODINSON ARCHERY COMES WITH THE CORRECTLY SPINED ARROWS FOR YOUR BOW!
FIND OUR BOWS HERE
The better your arrow is matched to the bow, the less your technique has to compensate for your equipment.

REVIEWS
What are our customers saying?
Odinson Archery has been proudly serving the archery community for 12 years and meeting our goal of “putting a bow in every hand”. Growing up in a household that struggled often times to make ends meet, Alan grew up finding the bows that he loved so much as a child weren’t within the family budget. He began his journey making PVC model bows and over the years has moved to creating his new poly resin design as well as other classic wooden composite style bows. Odinson Archery is always striving to be a beacon for those wanting to get into the world of archery without needing to break the bank in the process
Our goal from day one was not selling you “just a bow” but providing an experience that propels you forward on your archery journey. In the end, Odinson Archery wants the passion we feel about our craft to be shared by our customers. These are just a few of the many reviews we’ve received from our customers:
Alp Turkish Bow Reviews


The Assassin Series Reviews









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You Bought a Horse Bow. Now Learn How to Actually Shoot It.

So, you bought a horse bow.
Maybe it was a Turkish bow, Mongolian bow, Tatar bow, Korean bow, or another style inspired by the great archery traditions of Asia and the Middle East.
You strung it, grabbed some arrows, stepped into the backyard or onto the range and started shooting.
And then something became obvious:
This thing doesn’t shoot quite like your old recurve.
Your arrows may be flying left. Your groups may be inconsistent. The string might be hitting your arm. You’ve watched videos of experienced thumb-draw archers making these compact bows look incredibly fast, smooth, and powerful—but when you try to imitate them, something just doesn’t feel right.
Here’s the first thing you need to understand:
Buying a horse bow doesn’t automatically make you an Asiatic archer.
The bow is only half of the equation.
You also need to learn the shooting system that evolved alongside it.
A Horse Bow Is More Than a Short Recurve

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is treating an Asiatic-style horse bow exactly like a modern recurve.
Technically, you can shoot many horse bows using Mediterranean draw—the familiar three-finger technique used by most Western archers.
But if you want to explore what these bows were historically designed to do, you need to understand thumb draw archery.
For centuries, archers across cultures including the Mongols, Turks, Persians, Manchus, Koreans and many others developed sophisticated archery systems around short, powerful composite bows.
These traditions varied tremendously, but many shared certain characteristics:
- Drawing the string primarily with the thumb
- Using a thumb ring or other form of thumb protection
- Placing the arrow on the opposite side of the bow from the typical Western configuration
- Drawing farther than many modern Western archers
- Using dynamic bow-hand techniques
- Shooting quickly and efficiently from different positions
- Developing techniques suited to hunting, warfare and—in many cultures—mounted archery
Once you begin learning these methods, the horse bow starts to make a lot more sense.
You’re no longer trying to force an ancient bow design into a modern shooting system.
You’re learning to work with the bow instead of against it.
Step One: Learn the Thumb Draw Correctly

Thumb draw looks deceptively simple.
Hook the string with your thumb, wrap your index finger around it and pull.
Right?
Not exactly.
Small mistakes in thumb position, wrist alignment, hand tension and release mechanics can dramatically affect arrow flight—and can make shooting uncomfortable.
A proper thumb draw involves learning how to create a secure hook while keeping unnecessary tension out of the hand and forearm.
One of the most common mistakes beginners make is trying to open the hand during release.
A good release is not something you consciously force.
When proper back tension and alignment are used, the release becomes a consequence of the shot itself.
This is one reason experienced thumb-draw archers often appear incredibly smooth.
They aren’t simply pulling harder.
Their entire body is working together.
Step Two: Forget Everything You Think You Know About Draw Length

If you come from Western archery, you’ve probably been taught to think of draw length as a relatively fixed measurement.
Asiatic archery complicates that idea.
Different historical traditions used different draw lengths and anchor references.
Some draws terminate near the face.
Others extend toward the ear.
Some reach farther behind the jaw.
Manchu-style archery can involve particularly long draws.
This means your horse bow’s maximum safe draw length matters enormously.
Never assume that every horse bow can be drawn to the same length simply because you’ve seen another archer doing it.
The bow needs to match the technique.
At Odinson Archery, we offer several Asiatic-inspired bows designed around different shooting experiences. A compact horse bow and a longer-draw historical design may both fall under the broad category of “traditional archery,” but they can feel completely different in the hand.
Choosing the right bow is not simply about appearance.
It should match how you intend to shoot.
Step Three: Stop Obsessing Over Khatra—At Least for Now

Almost every new thumb-draw archer discovers the same word:
Khatra.
Then they immediately start violently twisting or throwing the bow around after every shot.
Don’t.
Khatra is often misunderstood because people focus on what the bow looks like after the arrow leaves rather than understanding what the bow hand is doing during the shot.
Good bow-hand mechanics can influence how cleanly the arrow clears the bow.
But exaggerated movement does not automatically improve accuracy.
In fact, trying to force dramatic khatra before developing solid fundamentals can create inconsistency.
Learn the foundation first:
Grip.
Alignment.
Thumb hook.
Back tension.
Expansion.
Release.
Then begin exploring dynamic bow-hand techniques.
Build the shot before you decorate it.
Step Four: Your Arrow Matters More Than You Think

You can have excellent technique and still get terrible arrow flight if your equipment is poorly matched.
Arrow length, spine and weight all matter.
This becomes especially important with thumb draw because your draw length may be significantly longer than it would be with Mediterranean draw.
An archer who draws 28 inches using Western technique might draw 30, 31 or even 32 inches using a different historical shooting style.
That changes the requirements of the arrow.
Never blindly copy an arrow setup from someone online.
Their bow, draw weight, draw length and technique may be completely different from yours.
Start conservatively.
Use arrows long enough for your actual draw.
Make sure your bow is designed to safely handle that draw length.
Then tune from there.
Step Five: Learn to Use Your Back

This may be the single biggest difference between someone who merely shoots a horse bow and someone who begins to look like an experienced Asiatic archer.
Beginners often pull primarily with the arm.
Experienced archers use the structure of the entire upper body.
The drawing elbow moves through the shot.
The shoulder blades engage.
The chest expands.
The bow arm participates.
Instead of thinking:
“Pull the string backward.”
Think:
“Expansion apart.”
That simple mental shift can completely change the way your shot feels.
This becomes even more important as draw weight increases.
You cannot efficiently muscle heavy historical-style bows using only your arm.
Structure and technique become essential.
Confused still? Watch this FREE TUTORIAL on Back Tension
Step Six: Accuracy Comes Before Speed

One of the things that attracts people to Asiatic archery is speed.
You’ve probably seen archers firing multiple arrows incredibly quickly.
It’s impressive.
It’s also one of the worst places for a beginner to start.
Speed amplifies mistakes.
If your release is poor, you’ll perform a poor release faster.
If your alignment is inconsistent, you’ll become inconsistently fast.
If your arrows scatter across the target, shooting more arrows per minute doesn’t solve the problem.
First develop:
Consistent loading.
Consistent draw.
Consistent expansion.
Consistent release.
Consistent arrow flight.
Then gradually increase speed.
The great historical warrior archers were not impressive simply because they could shoot quickly.
They combined speed, accuracy, power and control.
That should be the goal.
The Bow Is the Beginning, Not the Destination

This is where many new archers get stuck.
They keep buying equipment.
Another bow.
Another thumb ring.
Different arrows.
A new quiver.
Eventually they own an impressive collection—but their shooting hasn’t improved very much.
Equipment matters.
But equipment cannot replace training.
At Odinson Archery, our philosophy has always been that traditional archery should be more than simply owning traditional equipment.
The goal is to develop the skill of the archer behind the bow.
If you’re just beginning your journey, a good Asiatic-style bow gives you the platform to learn.
Odinson Archery offers horse bows and historically inspired traditional bows ranging from accessible designs for newer archers to equipment suited to those wanting to explore more specialized styles of historical shooting. All that’s left is to CHOOSE YOUR BOW from our wide selection and decide what style fits your specific needs in the field
But once the bow is in your hands, the next investment should be in learning how to use it.
Want to Learn Thumb Draw Step by Step?

If you’re trying to piece together thumb draw from dozens of videos, forum posts and conflicting opinions, I created the Thumb Draw Codex specifically to give archers a more structured path.
It breaks down the fundamentals behind thumb-draw shooting so you can understand not just what to do, but why you’re doing it.
The goal is to help you build a repeatable shooting system rather than simply copying what someone else looks like on camera.
And if you’ve already been shooting but something isn’t working—your arrows consistently miss to one side, your release feels inconsistent, your groups refuse to tighten, or you simply can’t identify what’s wrong—sometimes the fastest solution is having someone actually look at your form.
Through Odinson Archery Fast Form Coaching, you can submit footage of your shooting and receive personalized feedback focused on identifying the specific issues holding your technique back.
Sometimes one small correction can solve a problem you’ve been fighting for months.
Your Journey Is Just Beginning
Buying your first horse bow opens the door.
Walking through it is something else entirely.
Learn the thumb draw.
Understand your equipment.
Develop proper alignment.
Learn to use your back.
Build accuracy.
Then explore speed, dynamic shooting, historical techniques and the deeper martial traditions behind the bow.
Because eventually something interesting happens.
You stop feeling like someone who bought a horse bow.
You start becoming an archer who actually understands how to use one.
And that is where the real journey begins.
Ready to take the next step?
Explore traditional and Asiatic-inspired bows, the Thumb Draw Codex, and personalized Fast Form Coaching through Odinson Archery.
Don’t just own the bow. Learn the art behind it.

